• Tag Archives Aquastat
  • HEATING A CHURCH – Warming Up The Congregation

    Heating a church is seemingly always a challenge. Whether it’s the structure’s physical attributes, the climate variations, the occupancy schedule and warmup demands, no two are alike nor can they be treated as such.

    Oh, to turn back the clock a few centuries when most churches including the Great Cathedrals of Europe were unheated! Shivering through a lengthy sermon must have certainly tested the faithful. However, we have become sensitive to our comfort in modern times including group participation in religious activity. “Passing the plate” to pay the fuel (heating or cooling) bill is particularly noteworthy to the congregation and usually a topic of comment.

    The scope of our discussion will be limited to and focus upon improved heating of a church (or similar structure) via enhanced air handling. In our experience most congregations have focused on cooling enhancement by adding ceiling cooling fans and employ them to more aggressively circulate air with or without air conditioning. Now revisit a church during the heating cycle ….. and the fans are still! Why?

    Heated air warms people, and eventually the structure. Seat yourself on a cold pew bench or metal chair when it seems that the air around you is reasonably warm and you will get the message. Add the practice of doing temperature setbacks between occupancy to conserve fuel (customary in churches and meeting places) and you aggravate the warmup process. Some of this can be alleviated with the use of Programmable and WiFi Thermostats, but even these cannot address the underlying issues of efficient heated air distribution, our topic.

    As simple and as obvious as it may seem, heated air rises! Any contained structure, heated or unheated, exhibits a higher temperature at its top vs. its base. Whether it’s a fully “vaulted” cathedral or an arctic igloo, the effect is measurable. No complaints from the choir loft in a cathedral, by the way! An extreme can be found in a high-bay warehouse where seasonal upper temperatures can reach above 140°F, an immediate personnel health endangerment. It must therefore become obvious that we must turn on the fan(s) to advantage the heating situation, but how and when?

    Virtually all structures employ pHEATING A CHURCH – Warming Up The Congregationerimeter heating, i.e. placement of heating radiation or air registers around the exterior walls and usually somewhat positioned under windows where feasible. Heating radiation and heated air registers induce “convection” or natural rising and circulation of heated air and diffusing it with the cold air emanating from windows and exterior walls to eliminate their cooling effects. This heated and “mixed” air rises toward the centered ceiling or higher “cathedral ceiling” area creating natural convection and diffusion. Depending upon the individual structure attributes and aggressiveness of the radiation delivery there is always a level of lamination at the center/peak that can be advantaged by forcing it downward to mix and accelerate the heating process. The following pictorial is offered:

    Figures 1 & 2 above depict natural temperature lamination and convective flow of a perimeter-heated structure.

    Heating elements are purposefully placed against lower exterior walls to induce thermal convection while diffusing (mixing) with cooler air off the exterior walls for greater comfort. However, lighter heated air rises and accumulates at the ceiling levels, stratifying the air mass above. Cooling uppermost air gradually sinks and diffuses with lower, forming a midway convective path as depicted. Natural convection is never complete and the structure’s air mass is always significantly graduated temperature-wise from bottom to top.  The “vaulted” or “cathedral” ceiling in Figure 2 accentuates this condition, as coloring depicts. We must use forced convection (blowers or fans) to advantage ourselves.

    Our contention can be readily proven by switching on your present summer cooling fan(s), rotating to force air downward and adjusting until a modest air movement is felt. Turn on your heating thermostat and you will note a significantly quicker time-to-temperature resultant. The initially laminated air mass is diffused and then mixes with newly heated air to approach a more uniformly heated air mass. Ideally you should leave the fans on during the occupancy period, irregardless of thermostat demand cycling. It should be obvious that if circulation as described is not attainable, fan resizing and positioning may be necessary.

    Fan operation should be integrated into the heating system to maximize utilization and efficiency. The techniques must differ to suit each basic system type.

    1. Boiler-based Forced Hot Water (Hydronic) or Steam Systems are relatively simple to integrate. Trace the supply line from the top of the boiler outlet to the radiators or baseboard in the fan-located heating area.

    a. Place a heat-sensing “strap on”, “close on rise” aquastat such as the appropriate Honeywell 4006, 6006 Series on this supply line. Re-wire the power feed to the fans through the aquastat.

    b. Set the aquastat at 120°F as a starting point. Adjust in operation to suit. The lower the set point the longer pre-heat and post-heat fan operation to initially diffuse and then maintain comfort levels during cycling.

    2. HVAC Systems require a little more sophistication. Consult with a qualified technician to ascertain the proper strategy for lowering and lengthening system air delivery rates and timing.

    Note that an alternative control method is using a kick-space heater thermostat to switch a power relay such as a Honeywell RA89A (or other). Unfortunately the kick-space thermostats are typically available only in 110ºF (Low Option) 0r 130°F (Standard). However they can also be directly wired into an HVAC System, depending upon type. Commercial variants are available in different temperature settings as may be required.

    Using the prior technique another expedient is available. Purchase a common 24/7 Day Cycle Timer to dry switch the Honeywell RA89A Power Relay directly via its T-T (Thermostat) Terminals. Program the timer to approximate the 24/7 occupancy periods. Not as efficient, since intermediate heating cycles are not accommodated, but comfortable for the congregation. 

    Air lamination is an atmospheric attribute that must be addressed in all heating and cooling applications. Our scenarios apply not only to churches but assembly halls, public buildings and selective residential applications. In the end it’s cooperating with Mother Nature rather than fighting her.

     


  • OUR UNPOWERED FORCED HOT WATER (FHW) GRAVITY HEATING SYSTEM

    Yes, we have an oil-wood (or coal) central heating system in our home that can fully function without ANY electrical power through outages and uses less power in normal operation as well. How? Gravity induced convection heating. It was initially installed in 1975 and been incrementally improved to date.

    We are unabashedly Weil-McLain Heating System Designers and Installers. This does not mean however that we kowtow to the heating fuel suppliers and pay-as-we-go! Living in rural, frosty New Hampshire our economic fuel options are limited to oil and wood only. (Propane is a substantial premium and Natural Gas is not available.) So it is not surprising that many of us use wood or a mix of fuels to survive economically. Therefore, wood, wood pellet, coal stoves and wood boilers.

    Particular evidence of this heating trend is the recent popularity of external wood boilers (Metal Storage Sheds with a smokestack sticking up out of them) that occupy many rural yards, next to a large woodpile. (Not to mention the well worn path from the house to the wood boiler!) As a facet of our enterprise we mention interfacing our Weil-McLain FHW Boilers and converting our Steam Boilers to accommodate them. Not surprisingly we get inquiries by sometimes frustrated users to assist in making the wood boiler work well with their central heating boiler. The stories can be a bit humorous, in fact.

    Let us first describe our subject system with the intent to provide you with the principles and applications we employed and from which you may benefit in your application(s).
    We have two (2) single-fuel boilers, centrally located in the basement level of a large split entry home that we built in 1970:

    1. A Weil-McLain Model 568 Oil-Fired Boiler, installed in 1995 and subsequently “tweaked” for performance.
    2. A 1935 Vintage National Heating Co. Economy No. 64 Wood Burner. Found, reconditioned and installed in 1975. A museum-piece that still runs very well.
    3. A 40 gallon “Hot Roc” Stone-lined Storage Tank coupled to the Old National that prevents a boil-off if it is overcharged with wood or used (carefully) for extra hot water (heating) storage.

    These boilers are commonly coupled to an overhead supply manifold and on-the-floor piping between return manifolds, physically separated by ten (10) feet. This layout provides for a simple, pure convection loop between them. NO CIRCULATOR IS REQUIRED!

    There are three (3) circulator driven heating zones off the Weil-McLain manifolds. These are FloChek Valved off the upper supply manifold with circulators on the return manifold.
    The two (2) upper (main) level Living and Bedroom Area Zones are of Split Loop Configuration (reference our recent subject blog for detail) and the lower level Office and Garage Loops are a Split Perimeter and Unit Heater configuration, respectively.

    Gravity Hot Water Central Heating has been around for over 150 years but was never too popular due to its restrictive design attributes. It is functionally a single zone, single level system where building characteristics allow. There is significant lag in response to a temperature change demand and if boiler control is not absolute, temperature control suffers as well. Nonetheless, where and when you can employ convective heating it can be beneficial from a distribution energy perspective (or a lack of it available).

    Our Split Loops are fed by 1” center tapped supplies and returns that feed conventional series 3/4” radiation loops on each halves. The loops are configured with conventional 1” FloChek, manually controllable seat, opening valves on the supply manifold taps. These FloChek Valves are always included in a hydronic (hot water) system to prevent natural continuous convective heating. If one fails you have continual heating in degree regardless of thermostat setting. Note: FloChek valves may also be incorporated within a supply side circulator.

    So we can use natural convective heating to our advantage. By employing a modest upward pitch to our Split Loop supply and return lines we augment gravity convection (hotter water rises, cooler water sinks) and opening the FloChek valves we have a “controllable” energy-free heating zone. The adjective “controllable” has to be qualified by trial and error settings over varying indoor and outdoor temperature demands.

    Let’s go through the four (4) Operational Modes available in our system:

    1. Powered, Oil-fired FHW “conventional” heating only.
    2. Powered, Oil and Wood-fired dual fuel heating.
    3. Powered Wood-fired heating only.
    4. Powerless Wood-fired heating.

    Powered, Oil-fired FHW “conventional” heating mode is conventional in all regards. There is an “open on rise” aquastat (adjustable) on the wood boiler that performs two (2) functions:

    1. Inhibits the oil burner boiler primary control when the wood boiler temperature setting is reached.
    2. Opens a motorized valve to enable the inter-boiler convection loop to operate.
      “Set it and forget it” applies.

    Powered, Oil and Wood-fired dual fuel heating is enabled when the wood boiler aquastat engages and disengages the oil burner and the convection loop valve as wood burning proceeds. There is a second aquastat on the wood boiler supply pipe that “closes on rise” as water temperature approaches the boiling point (set at 200F). It opens a zone valve that initiates a second close-coupled convective loop allowing room temperature (or above) water in the “Hot Roc” Tank to temper the boiler water temperature. So if you overfill the wood boiler and walk away there is no consequence. Works beautifully! This feature is referred to as a “Dumping Zone” – getting rid of the excess energy.

    Powered Wood-fired heating only operation is similar to the oil and wood mode excepting the oil burner is fully disabled by moving the wood boiler aquastat to its lowest setting nearing ambient room (and therefore water) temperature. We have another option on our particular oil burner primary control of a built-in switch-off feature. (A common switch could also be employed to open this wood boiler aquastat to primary control circuit.)

    Powerless Wood-fired heating is merely emulating the operation of the powered mode while adjusting FloChek Valves on your heating zones and maintaining your wood boiler temperature range. In fact you can strike a boiler charging pattern that can free you from full-time babysitting the “dragon”. Our Samson 5D (Expansion Slug Type) Boiler Controller will maintain a temperature setting reasonably well on the Old National excepting when you seriously overcharge the beast — then things start happening! When the pipes start banging you have to “expeditiously” open the “Dump Zone” Tank Valve manually to temper it down. You learn this lesson in a hurry!

    To summarize, we used the wood only mode (powered and powerless) continuously for nine (9) consecutive years, providing full-home corner to corner heating and providing our domestic hot water for our large family. (The summer season requires a little lifestyle scheduling.) Annual wood consumption was four (4) to four and a half (4-1/2) cords per year.

    Since that time our lifestyle changes have precluded wood-only operation, but it’s there if we need it. Evidencing a severe ice storm a couple years ago that crippled most of New England for over a week, it was a mere inconvenience to us.

    Unfortunately gravity convection heating has little applicability to the current external wood boiler rage. They require electrical power for operation. The internal wood boiler is another matter, such as is employed in our case. Hopefully some of our experience can be used in configuring your system or trimming a little operating cost from it.

    Author’s Update: 05/12/2017

    We have incorporated our gravity heating experience into what we believe to be the first, practical, efficient and affordable Pre-built “Delta-T ECM Hydronic (FHW) Heating APPLIANCE”. Non-Provisional Intelligent Property (Utility Patent) Protection is in process in the USA & Canada. Check it out at www.BoilersOnDemand.com.


  • CONVERTING A STEAM HEATING SYSTEM TO HOT WATER – THE WHYS AND HOWS

    Steam Heating Systems were the Cadillac of heating options for residential applications for about a century. Pricey, tending to be a bit fuel-thirsty (regardless of the fuel used), they were extremely simple, durable and provided a superbly comfortable heated environment. Economics have gradually forced steam heating into the commercial and industrial process realms alone. So where do you go with that residential steam system? It depends upon your goals.

    When do you stay with steam rather than change over to hot water or some other heating form?

    1. If you have a nice, period home that suits your needs excepting to lighten up on your wallet a bit, just upgrade the boiler to a modern, high efficiency unit. Older boilers typically are large, with open heating passages to suit both wood or coal fires that when upgraded to gas or oil result in very poor fuel efficiencies. Presuming the system piping and radiators are serviceable there is little incentive to change over the entire system. (Steam heating distribution is arguably more efficient than hot water!)
    2. Similarly, if you like those decorative radiators that warm your hands, food, dry clothes on, etc. and take up less footprint and wall space than hot water baseboard, think again.
    3. If you plan an addition or heated area extension and envision running steam piping everywhere to heat it, there is the little known and utilized steam boiler “bottom water” forced hot water heating option. Circulating the lower water below the steaming chamber (top of the boiler) provides extended heating system flexibility. Furthermore, forced hot water extends capability to attics, garages and additions with baseboard, Unit Heaters (fan forced radiators) and Air Handlers (a ducted FHA Furnace with an internal radiator that heats your hot air vs. using a gas or oil fuel source). You must however convert zero-pressure steam water into approx. 15PSI heating water for circulation to new radiation. A correct plate-to-plate heat exchanger is required and circulation both from the boiler and to radiation added. A separate water supply source and an expansion capability must be provided for the pressurized heating water circuit as well. Note: Remember to size your now “two-state energy” Steam/Hot Water Boiler accordingly.

    There is an interesting “middle ground” where you can convert your existing, newer steam boiler to hot water operation while keeping those aesthetic steam radiators. You must however replace all the old steam system piping in doing so. Steam radiators work well with hot water, but at moderately reduced heating (temperature) capacity. More importantly is the higher water volume content of steam radiators and how to supply them properly for even distribution.

    Referring to our separate blog on FHW Heating Loops, you can’t pipe cast iron steam radiators in series and get even heating! Even a split loop will not work but for a couple of radiators at best.  The only effective option is the mono-flow loop system, branched for each radiator. All will require increased piping and circulator capacity.

    Despite the challenges, converting steam radiation provides some attractive opportunities, heating-wise.

    1. You maintain your prior heated area aesthetics and functionality with few perceptible changes.
    2. You can now re-pipe and “zone” the prior area with multiple thermostats, even down to individual room level if you desire.
    3. Obviously you can add additional heated areas (zones) as well.

    Fully converting a steam boiler to hot water operation and then replacing or adding all heating distribution components is the last and most complete option. Scenarios:

    1. You have an excellent steam boiler with an economic incentive in mind. If you just wish to swap this unit out for your existing, inefficient or failed FHW Boiler as a one-for-one, be careful. Make certain that the conversion components and labor (as applicable) justify the changeover.
    2. Changing your existing, older steam boiler to FHW in our view is questionable. You are trading off operational efficiency against upgrade costs.
    3. Steam Boilers typically and Weil-McLain Steamers (our expertise) in particular have several advantages over their sister Hot Water Boilers. The front and rear sections are notably heavier and bulkier, containing more cast iron and water that can contribute to durability and theoretically capacity. Can’t speak for other manufacturers, but the Weils are heavier and tougher. Check their Specifications. Also if you are using a DHW Coil (immersion coil in the boiler to generate your domestic hot water), steam boiler coil(s) have nominally higher capacities and larger (Weil-McLain) boilers sometimes have two coils, or provisions for them for greater DHW capacity delivery. Check.

    A recent phenomenon is the Outside Wood Boiler. You know, that thing that sits beside a house that looks like a Metal Garden Shed with a Smoke Pipe sticking up out of it and a woodpile alongside. They are typically owned by rural folks that have a great wood supply and don’t mind tripping through the snow to keep themselves warm. These boilers are also “zero pressure” systems. They must be adapted to a pressurized FHW System through a Plate-to-Plate Heat Exchanger, utilizing circulators and controls. (You must maintain constant electric service to these systems or it can get exciting and cold, or both.)

    Coupling an Outside Wood Boiler to a Steam System is dubious at best. The only deliverables in this scenario are preheated boiler water that must be then fired and converted into steam by the central boiler, but which can also provide DHW through its internal coil (if equipped) or by an Indirect Water Heater (Insulated DHW Storage Tank) as an option. It just doesn’t make sense except to generate a lot of Domestic Hot Water. Therefore, in order to utilize the Outside Wood Boiler effectively you must do a complete steam boiler conversion (or a hot water boiler substitution) with the appropriate scenarios as previously detailed. There is no “easy road to glory” on this one.

    So procedural, to convert a steam boiler to forced hot water operation you must:

    1. De-plumb all iron and other piping right to the boiler. It must be “bare” as we say.
    2. Remove all of the electric components and associated wiring.
    3. Remove the Boiler Jacket (usually sheet metal) and place aside for reassembly.
    4. First, locate and substitute a 30 PSI (FHW) Pressure Relief Valve for the 15PSI (Steam) Valve. VERY IMPORTANT! Forget, and you’ll get wet — and surprised!
    5. Remove the Water Sight Glass, LWCO (Low Water Cut Off), Pressure Switch, etc. (Clean off the front of the boiler, in other words.) Dope and plug all affected boiler taps.
    6. Check Immersion Coil (DHW) Gasket(s) and Blanker Plates for leaks. Fix them.
    7. The smart guy plugs, fills the boiler and pressurizes it to 30 PSI (until the Relief Valve opens) and then checks for ANY LEAKS! Remember, steam boilers operate at about 0.5 to 5 PSI in use. You may have sectional leaking issues and not see them at that pressure. Sectional leaks between boiler castings are usually catastrophic. Stop and rethink your options. But, assuming it passes …..
    8. Find the manufacturer’s boiler piping diagram and locate the preferred aquastat front tapping and insert the appropriate “Spud Well” to receive the aquastat.
    9. Reassemble the boiler jacket and provide the opening for the Aquastat “Spud Well”.
    10. From the Manufacturer’s Hot Water Boiler Manual, identify the control components and hardware necessary to refit. Present this info to your Qualified Heating Engineer or Technician.

    Pay particular attention that your Master Aquastat selection compliments your application. There are several operational options available and should be qualified prior to final selection. Our preferred is the Hydrolevel “Fuel Smart” 3250-Plus Aquastatwith “Electro-Well” for all conversions.

    You now have a tight boiler ready to reconfigure for your application. Your further risk is minimal, save a hot operation leak(s) that may or may not be seal-able. Now consult and utilize a knowledgeable source.

    Be mindful that in converting any steam system to forced hot water you reduce the capacity of that system by 10% or more, if that is a consideration. Steam operates at a significantly higher system temperature in its vapor state than can be safely achieved with heating water safely below its boiling point.

    It may be implied from the above that we discourage steam to hot water boiler conversions. We have done it very successfully, once with an almost new Weil-McLain Gold Steamer and we’ve never been back. Do your homework!

    The option of acquiring a near-new FHW boiler instead of converting your steamer, particularly with the preponderance of on-going fuel conversions can also make very good sense.

    Hope this has helped you assess your particular situation.

    Updated: 11/28/2018 pdm